Grand Opening of Los Muertos Pier!!

After many years and much angst the Los Muertos Pier opened this past January 4th, 2013 to much fanfare and celebration.  I was fortunate enough to see the whole thing from the comfort of Cuates y Cuentes the restaurant located right at the corner of the new pier.  I had been watching all the time the progress that was and was not being made on the pier that seemed to take forever.  As usual the funds to start the project were there and then 1/2 way through the funds ran out.  Luckily the State of Jalisco came to the rescue with the funds need to finish the project and so it finally came to be!
What a fantastic addition to the area and just another attraction not only for Puerto Vallarta, but for the Los Muertos Beach area!  With its modern architecture and sloping winding walkway to the grand sail-like structure in the center, it is quite a display.  It reminding me of such grand projects as the Opera House in Sidney, Australia or the Denver International Airport.  The added feature on this structure is the lighting.  With many different combinations of colored lights that allow the "sail" and the pier itself to alternate colors certainly makes it unique at night.  The have even created a spectrum that depicts the Mexican flag.
As usual the naysayers said it was not appropriate for Puerto Vallarta and the design was all wrong, but once they see it lit up at night........What can they say??
The evening of the Grand Opening Celebration was started with some Jazz entertainment (Beverely and Willow)  and then skydivers came in.  Turns out of the skydivers was the Director of Tourism for Puerto Vallarta!  The usual speeches by the government officials was followed by a 15 fireworks show right on the beach.  Then we had more entertainment by Xiutla Ballet, while the dignitaries enjoyed hors d'ouvres and cocktails on the newly inaugurated pier.   After their show the Jazz music resumed with a Latin Jazz band and the pier was opened to the public to explore.
While there were hundreds of people around to enjoy the festivities, I waited a bit to go explore it myself.  But after a while I ventured out and enjoyed the new structure and the views back to Los Muertos Beach.  Just Fantastic!
I am sure this new addition to the area will become a new visitors "Must See". It will certainly bring lots of people to that area helping the local businesses and may even increase real estate values.  Now is the time to buy as prices will probably never be this low again!

Playa Tehuanmixtle

Another drive today south of Puerto Vallarta to the lovely town of El Tuito and beyond to the beaches of Cabo Corrientes had me going to the small fishing village of Tehuanmixtle.  Tehuanmixtle is located around the corner about 1 mile from Mayto Beach by keeping straight on the El Tuito to Mayto road and turning right down the steep road into the fishing village.   What makes this little village unique is that there are about 4 different restaurants to choose from and we decided to go to Cande's Place as the owner Candelano made a point of welcoming me to his village that he has been a part of for over 50 years!  He told us that his mother has been living here and had another restaurant down the beach a bit for over 120 years!
We were looking for some whole fresh Huachchinango (Red Snapper) and that is what we got!  Since the size of the fish were larger the server suggested we share one and I am glad we did!  That 2.2 kilo fish was huge and plenty for 3!  It was accompanied by pablano chile rice, salad, tortillas, and salsa.   It was wonderful and perfectly cooked with garlic and butter it just fell off the bone and we could not stop eating it!  After the wonderful lunch we moved over the beach side of the village and enjoyed some warming sun rays as it was a bit cool in the shade of the restaurant.
The village is very small on the steep down road and just provides a place to rest, enjoy lunch, and see some different views of the Cabo Corrientes area with miles and miles of beaches in the distant.  Tehuanmixtle is unique in that it is positioned in a very rocky area and has only a small beach, unlike Mayto and the other beaches around the area.
Located about 2 hours south of Puerto Vallarta this area is connected via a dirt road that is about 22 miles away from El Tuito.  The road continues to be improved and paved, but there is still plenty of dirt along the way.  The first 6.2 miles are paved, then dirt until a small town for 1 mile of paved, then back to dirt until you are about 4.5 miles away from Mayto, the road becomes paved again.   So plan on driving at least 1/2 the way on a dirt road that winds itself up and around the hills but steadily downhill to sea level.  El Tuito is at about 2000 feet of elevation, so you have to head back down to sea level.
Any good vehicle can make the drive, but take your time and do not rush.  There are some other small villages along the way and most have a place to stop and get a cold beverage.
It is easily a day trip but you have 4 hours total of driving back and forth.  Get out of PV and enjoy the other parts of Mexico, it is well worth the drive!

Sabores Restaurant-San Vincente

I had the pleasure of eating last week a great restaurant located off the beaten path in the town of San Vincente.  San Vincente you ask?  Located just off the main highway 200 between Puerto Vallarta and Bucerias is the town of Metzcales  At the taffic signal, take the main road east that takes you to most of the housing developments for Mexican homeowners.  Only about 2.5 miles up the road you find a brand new shopping plaza anchored by a Farmacia Guadalajara.  Sabores is  behind the Farmacia and faces a large community Palapa that the restaurant uses to serve its clients.   Francisco the owner will rush out to greet you by bringing a cloth tablecloth, cloth napkins, and silverware to the table of your choice.
Why go this far out of the way for a restaurant?  It is because Sabores does an excellent job of preparing food with all fresh ingredients and a style developed by the Chef/Owner himself.  Whether you just want pizza, or an entravagant meal of Paella, Francisco can prepare it all!   The first time I went I ordered the Fish Filet with Currysauce and my friend ordered the Paella.   Since Paella takes about 45 minutes to prepare (as it should) we had a Fish Cerviche appetizer, that was a meal in itself and I highly recommend it.   My fish arrived on a china plate with a very large portion of fish, fresh sauteed vegetables and wild rice.......just delicious!  The curry sauce is unique in that it has a Caribbean flavor to it as it is sweetened slightly with pineapple.   The Paella was worth the wait!  Served in the Paella pan it was a generous portion enough for two with all the ingredients needed to make a proper Paella even Saffron.   Many restaurants in Mexico use an imitation Saffron from a root, but not Francisco! 
Francisco is of Peruvian heritage, but owned a catering company in the US for 20 years serving many clients in the state of California.   The menu reflects all of these flavors from Mexico, Peru, Caribbean, and the United States.  While simple, it has plenty of selections to choose from.
Enjoy Sabores and tell Francisco Edward sent you!!

Guadalajara One More Time!

Spent another great weekend in the City of Guadalajara this past weekend!  This time I had to do some service for my BMW at the dealership as there are none in Puerto Vallarta, and working on importing the car to Mexico was part of the main reasons for the trip, however, I always make a point of going to the city a few days early to enjoy it.  The overnight stay this time was at the Frances Hotel www.hotelfrances.com about one block from the Main Cathedral.  This is the oldest hotel in Guadalajara and was built in 1610, so if affords the opportunity of a well built old hotel with wooden floors, basic gated elevator, and a great atrium lobby.  The have a large assortment of types of rooms ranging in price from 643 pesos-1200 pesos for a mini suite.  Some have air conditioning, but not all so be careful to get the type of accomodation you wish.  The covenient location is not too be beat for the price!
It was Childrens Day in Mexico, so there was lots of children all around with many stores offering free drinks and snacks to children.   Spending Saturday afternoon around the city again with a quick bite to eat next door for Tortas Ahogados, (the drunken sandwich specialty of Guadalajara) we walked around and spend some time in San Juan de Dios Flea Market a favorite place of mine.  Right next to Plaza Los Mariachis for a few beers and crowd watching makes a great afternoon.   Dinner would be at my favorite place again, Birrieria Las Nueves Esquinas  http://www.las9esquinas.com/inicio.html  that serves their own lamb and goat dishes with homemade salsas, tortillas, and all the fixings.  Fantastic!!
Sunday it was the day back in Tonala for the madness called the Sunday Flea Market.   Besides the usual sensory overload, I finally made it all the way through the market from beginning to end.  Only took me three visits!   This time I was more familiar with the area as know what I was looking for, so it becomes much easier.  Lunch was at a great Seafood restaurant across from the Flea Market Mariscos de Arandense  http://mariscoselarandense.com/ on the main road.  They have an extensive menu with large portions, fast service, reasonable prices, large seating area, and good quality of seafood.    They have been around since 1998 and provide 2 locations around Guadalajara.  I recommend it as it away from the flea market madness and crowd to provide a little oasis for your lunch.  There are however, many other vendors scattered about the Flea Market area and you can rest your feet, feed your hunger and thirst very easily through these small vendors that seem to have some great selections and quality of food.

Las Carmelitas Restaurant

Very high above Puerto Vallarta lies one of the highest buildings in the surrounding area that serves as a restaurant called Las Carmelitas Restaurant.  I had been there many years ago so I was somewhat familiar with the steep road up that way as well as the food quality and view.  The road is quite manageable because most of it is cobblestoned.   However, to my surprise they have built a new restaurant even higher up above the old restaurant!  Only 3 months old the new location is even more spectacular and much larger.  While funds are still short to complete the project it was adequately finished to enjoy a pleasant meal in a pleasant enviroment.  The tile work is very detailed and is very upscale, so I can understand it is going to take a lot more money to finish it completely.
The old place had so-so Mexican food, but the view was what is was all about, so most people did not care.  The new place has transformed the whole experience into a first class restaurant with fantastic mango margaritas (150 pesos, expensive but very large), and a new menu that specializes in Continental cuisine such as seafood and steak.  No Mexican food to be had!
We ordered the "Carmelitas Special Fish"  and it was fantastic!  Between 2 layers of Mahi Mahi fish it was stuffed with onions, mushrooms, peppers, cheese, and shrimp, then a mole type sauce on top.  It was served with rice, vegetables, coleslaw, and garlic bread.  Very tasty!
Another person ordered the Seafood Stew which was a tomato based soup just loaded with seafood like shrimp, crab, scallops, fish, mussels, and oysters.....also very tasty.
Now to the view, as it is spectactular and there is no place else in the surrounding Banderas Bay area that you can see the whole bay!  We were there for sunset and it was spectacular!  With the birds flying around us because of the altitude, I would say we were around 1000 feet above sea level!
Las Carmelitas is not cheap and they do not accept credit cards, so bring plenty of cash, but the view, service, and food was well worth the entire experience.  Entrees are priced 200-400 pesos.

El Chivero Restaurant Bucerias

My favorite beachside restaurant has to be El Chivero located on Avenida Pacifico #9 just north of the small Malecon on the beach side of Bucerias near the Main Plaza.  I have been there countless times and have always enjoyed the ambiance, service, and food.  It always has a place to park in front and just walking a few steps through the restaurant you are on the wide open Bucerias beach that runs for miles in either direction.  They have nice palapas with dining tables and chairs as well as reclining lounge chairs situated on the beach in front.  So you can enjoy your day there as there is no rental charge for anything as long as you purchase food and beverages from them.
The menu provides a wide range of food from appetizers to full blown dinners at reasonable prices.  So order your 2x1 all day drink specials or a bucket of Cerveza and enjoy a wonderful day on the beach in Bucerias at El Chivero!

Blue Shrimp Restaurant

I finally made it back to The Blue Shrimp http://www.blueshrimp.mx/ last night at their new location on Los Muertos Beach next door to Daiquiri Dicks.  The location has always been a favorite of mine because of the massive Palapa roof and great ambience the place brings.  Unfortunately a few predecessors have not survived this location, but Blue Shrimp has a following from their old location off of the Malecon that I am sure will follow.  The new location seems to also provid them a lot more walk-by traffic as they were quite full last night.
Arriving about 20 minutes before sunset, it is a great location for the nightly event as we sat along the beach side railing overlooking the beach.   I was pleased that the food was a good as it has always been, eventhough the pricing seem a bit higher.  The service was a little inanttentive, but good and might have been due to a full restaurant.  We enjoyed the fresh tender Calamari appetizer and then ordered three different shrimp dishes; Tequila, Coconut, and Portuguese (cheese stuff & bacon wrapped).   The presentation was as great as it always was with the Coconut shrimp displayed on a tray with 1/2 a coconut filled with their awesome Green Goddess dipping sauce.  The Portuguese Shrimp dish was also displayed with  skewers stuck into 1/2 of a papaya and a little flaming tomato as a garnish!  All entrees come with rice, vegetables, and of course their great salad bar.
If you like great shrimp with a menu that allows you to buy it by weight and size, Blue Shrimp is not to be missed!

Marisma Taco Stand

My favorite fish taco stand and I know the favorite of many visitors and Vallartans is called Marisma Taco Stand. It is located in the short block behind El Brujo and the roads leading into (Basillo Badillo) and out (Venustiano Carranza) of the short tunnel in Zona Romantica.
A very simple menu of deep fried fish & shrimp, smoked Marlin, Crab, Spicy Squid, and various Quesadillas provides the perfect selection for that quick meal.  Made with homemade tortillas and all prepared to order it is excellent! While their pricing is a bit higher than most taco stands, it is worth the extra money for a high quality product.   Stop by and enjoy one, two, three, or more as there is no pressure to eat and go.  They even speak English!

Bucerias Art Walk

Every Thursday evening from 7pm-9pm the Bucerias Art Walk is held in the beachside town of Bucerias about 30 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta.  www.thebuceriasartwalk.com/index.html
Considered the "Center of the Bay" Bucerias is a neat little town with lots of beachside hotels and condos for rent in a quiet sleepy setting with great beaches.  I have been to the Art Walk a few times already and have always enjoyed the leisurely stroll along the Main Street one block from the beach, where many shop owners open their doors to promote local Mexican art from the area.  This includes many other areas of Mexico as well such as Puebla, Oaxaca, and Veracruz.  At least 6 restaurants are located within the area so after your walk around to see the great works of art, a bite to eat is easy! 
The restaurants include infamous Marks Restaurant that has been a staple in the area for many years, providing an excellent menu, great wine list, and fine service.   I have enjoyed their Beef Carpacio with Ostrich Pate, the Calamari with Wasabi and Tomato Colis sauces, the Seafood Pasta, and of course their great choice of brick oven Pizzas. www.marksbucerias.com/
For a great evening of seeing great artwork as well as visit a difference place to be seen and eat, come to the Bucerias Art Walk on Thursday evenings.....it is worth the drive!

Joe Jacks Fish Shack

Joe Jacks Fish Shack has been a great place for fresh seafood and of course their infamous Fish & Chips for over 4 years now and every time I go there, I have never been dissapointed.  That is because every time you go there Joe is always in the kitchen making sure things are right!  Why do I know this, because as you proceed up the stairs to go the upper level, you walk through the kitchen and see Joe there.
The use a lightly batter Red Snapper fish filet for the Fish & Chips and there just is nothing better.   As usual when I went there last week the place was packed with everyone enjoying the great fare and of course the Mojitos are to die for....best in Puerto Vallarta.  And to boot they are not just the normal flavors but many varieties as well such as ginger, strawberry, and pineapple.  If you get there earlier enough in the day it is 2x1 time from 12pm-5pm.
I highly recommend this restaurant located in Zona Romantica at Basilio Badillo #212.....tell Joe I sent you!

Restaurants

Puerto Vallarta is loaded with many restaurants from the elegant expensive ones to the casual ones with more reasonable prices....but then again this is a resort town in Mexico and all prices are higher than you would find in the countryside. I have several favorite ones than seemed to be more reasonably priced:

El Coleguita-Marina-(located on the same entrance to the Marina with the large whales sculpture)
his is the best price value restaurant in Puerto Vallarta because for 109 pesos you get the following: at least 1 shot of house tequila, tostadas with salsa, your entree of fish and shrimp (30) including salad, rice, bread, and dessert of baked plantain with vanilla syrup. If that is not enough you get an after dinner drink of kahlua & cream. (Revisited in March 2011 and all the items are the same as mentioned above)  NOW THIS IS THE DEAL OF CENTURY!!

Barcelona Tapas-Downtown Malecon-(located on the block between 31 Octobre & Jesus Langarica and straight up either street to Matamoros)
Tapas is alive and well in Puerto Vallarta at this great restaurant owned by an American with Mexican wife! The menu is extensive and complete with medium to high prices, but the portions are large for tapas and the Sangria is excellent offered in red or white. The best part is the fantastic sunsets here in the downtown area...make sure you sit in the upper level of the restaurant with the breezes of the ocean it is a comfortable place even in the summer.  But just in case they also will close the windows and turn on the the AC! http://www.barcelonatapas.net/  (Updated in March 2011 and everything remains the same!)


Cafe Bohemia-Zona Romantica(127 Rodolfo Gomez-next to Los Arcos Hotel) Another fantastic restaurant with great value for the money owned by Sol Rosen a former New York Broadway star. The menu has a great selection of Mexican & American comfort food dishes with a daily special starting at 129 pesos. All meals include homemade tortilla chips(the light & airy kind) & salsa, soup of the day and your entree. Sol is known for his special Jewish holiday feasts including his homemade Matzo Ball soup that has been known to be the soup of the day too! When things are really busy (which they usually are because of the limited seating), Sol will burst out in song to the delight of everyone enjoying their fantastic meals!  Updated in March 2011 and the experience remains the same, eventhough Sol was out town the staff seems to have kept up the quality of the food.  I enjoyed the daily special at 139 pesos which was Mahi Mahi topped with shrimp and oyster sauce.  Very tasty and well presented.